I would like to begin by giving credit to this writer who I stumbled upon prior to visiting Italy for the first time just last week. This young woman was a travel photographer and created Petite Suitcase to inspire travelers with tips and such. This particular article was titled (link below):
She was spot on in my opinion. Naples, Italy is just that. A beautiful mess! And honestly, I think me & Naples have a lot in common.
Hi! Welcome to Tableforsue! It’s been a while! Thank you for joining me as I share about my first visit to Italy! Being Italian myself on my daddy’s side, I just knew I was going to feel at home. Before I left, my dad said, “you’d fit in anywhere Sooz…” He’s biased, but he sure lifts me up. I not only felt at home, but found a little piece of my soul. So many profound encounters! I only hope I can capture them enough through writing to convey how impactful they were. It is always my hope, like any artist I believe, to infect a bit of joy, dream, thoughtful wonder to even one fellow being ... It's a great, big beautiful world! How blessed I am to experience so much of it.
Naples, Italy April 2024
Info for this piece below. I think my childhood friend said it best - should be, "Nothing to Wear." (ox Laura R.)
I adore it all. Stunning view paired with an enormous pile of ragged, weathered clothes.
A beautiful mess....
About the above art....
So, Houston to Newark, NJ then onward directly to Naples, Italy. Thank goodness we had perks to get the sleeper seats. For both flights! Whew - it is a luxury duly noted with an extreme Amen!
They're so efficient. Champagne, steaming wash cloth, a warm meal, then it's goodnight Irene. Movies on the way there: You've Got Mail (I'm a sucker for Tom Hanks & Meg Ryan), Episodes of Modern Family, Re-watched Stanley Tucci in Naples. Return flight I watched "Fractured" which was totally the bomb with Sir Anthony Hopkins & I caught Burial with Tommy Lee Jones & Jamie Foxx! Awesome!! Highly recommend. I am a huge movie buff. Always have been. Aren't you? I hope to be in some one day.
We arrived so early in the morning. Jet lagged and jaw dropped at the views through the sleep in our eyes. The taxi driver dropped us at the Harbor and as we were lost in translation we happily grabbed our bags and began walking to where he pointed. Lars' conference would be right near our hotel as well.
First we went all the way to the water and then back again. We were both in such a fog. It was funny.
Smart Hotel, Naples Italy
We found it!!
They were so lovely once we arrived. Of course, check out was not until 10:30am and check in is at 3pm. We arrived at 7am. Gulp. Lars and I sat in some lobby chairs and slipped into a coma when this stunning Italian woman who worked at the hotel woke us around noon and said, your rooms are readyyyyy in the most gentle, warm way. We looked like the Clam-Pits.
What a surprise to see our first floor accommodations!
Those are the sliding doors into our quaint room. It was absolutely delightful and incredibly clean! It was tiny and cozy and the patio area was partitioned off as cruisers came in and out of port all week. I don't know about you, but it was surreal to me to be right there as these cruise ships came in and out.
Facing the water, obviously. I found it endearing because with each new ship, Lars would google the weight, history, capacity, etc. As I'd admire the view, I would get some new information without even touching my phone. Win, win.
Later the next day we took a shot from outside of our hotel because I was in AWE of the size! I have never been on a cruise. I used to think I would love to because I am a huge water person. But I have no interest in one of these big, commercial cruises. That's just me. I would go on a smaller, adults only, clothing optional cruise though. That's a huge ass ship! How does it not tip over?
We both fell into the bed like we hadn’t slept in 100 years and finally surfaced around 6pm. Disoriented and groggy, I unpacked everything neatly and we headed out to find PIZZA!!!!! (Ya, I remember it’s a food blog and not a travel blog! But it’s my blog and I’ll blog how I want to, blog how I want to. You would blog to if it happened to you…. Anyway, I digress,,,)
Our first order of business had to be PIZZA!!! We were, after all, at the source! The birth place of this beloved masterpiece adored around the world. Lars, of course, sought out a Michelin for our first experience. This would be one of more than three pizzas (I don't recall an accurate count) I would be eating throughout the week.
First up: PALAZZO PETRUCCI (say it like you mean it with your hands!)
As you can hopefully capture from the photos, eating pizza in Napoli is a full on experience. Every direction you look you will see breathtaking remnants of history living harmoniously with imperfect accents of litter & random grafitti.
Still groggy from our travels. We weren't even sure what day or time it really was at this point. It was just time to eat pizza!
And as we anticipated our first bite, there right in front of us was the Statue Margherita!
I went with their stracciatella & tomato because I am in love with that stretchy, rich cheese!! Lars and I were delighted to discover that they poached the cherry tomatoes in olive oil which enhanced their flavor and sweetness. The FIRST drop of olive oil I tasted made me want to drink the bottle. It was so perfect! The basil, the crust, the much needed coke zero.... 10/10!! And a very big kiss to the chef!
Lars went for a porky pie! It was gone in 60 seconds so safe to say he enjoyed. I thought it was salty, but pancetta and cheese are a salty pair so it delivered accordingly.
Mangia Mangia!!
Strolling around Naples itself was like a magnificent museum. Unassuming steps up to apartments may be ordained with Jesus on the cross. Observing at least 50 Italian children heading toward a bus holding hands and speaking their language just made me smile. Some of the boys were hand in hand which was so indicative of this affectionate culture. "I would not want to miss a thing," I thought as the backdrop of this beautiful mess was still crawling with phone users. I didn't get a shot of it, but we saw this one woman put her key into the most gigantic door I have ever seen. It was a giant wall door. But then, as her key unlocked the entrance, only an average size door opened. So there was a door within the door. I didn't take a picture because I didn't want to weird her out. I mean it looked like she was just getting home. And apparently lives in a Knight's Quarter. Unreal.
I could not get over it! We head out each morning and there's a castle. The photos just aren't the same, I know. I wish I could bring you to Naples! I love a port city!
Just Mt. Vesuvius right there in front of us. MIND BLOW!
Lars graciously agreed to enjoy a day without an itinerary and as we strolled along the harbor, we came across LUPINIS ON THE STREET!!!!!! (I grew up eating them and basically, like pickles or olives, they are "snacky" treats. We always get them from Italian speciality stores because they're a pain in the ass to make homemade. You have to pop them out of their little soft shell and eat the inside kind of like edamame. Just go get some.). I was so excited I sadly forgot to capture a photo of this sweet Nonna as we had such a warm, loving encounter. We did not speak the same language, but we did speak Lupini!! She was so beautiful! When someone's smile sends a sparkle in their eyes and you know they are really seeing you and sharing a brief moment with just you. Are you seizing those magical moments?
She sprinkled them with salt and pepper and I gave one to Lars to try. If you don't love them, you don't get any more. I polished those off and later shared the pics with my brother because I think he might love them even more than me. Jimmer was right there with me while I enjoyed Nonna's lupinis on the streets of Napoli. We could eat that whole tub! ox
I left her an extra 5Euro and she gleamed with love as we had our final two cheek kisses. I looked for her again the next few days, but she was not there. :(
A negroni, a limoncello spritz (2 signature drinks of the region) and some by the sea dining. I could've eaten 10 bowls of them olives and 10 bowls of lupinis, but I must say, I am a plain girly when it comes to seafood. I love sushi and grilled fish and shrimp, but no matter how often I try, I do not care for seafood mixed into other dishes like pasta or pizza, etc. So Lars ate two dinners which was great because his entree only amoozed his boosh.
Incredible views dining on the water.
Trying to get Vesuvius I captured quite a sexy shot of my stud muffin! Sizzle!
And now Lars and I begin our full day in Naples together without the jet lag and minus any conference meetings to attend. Lars prefers having an itinerary, but he was willing to take a fly by the seat of your pants day for me. No rental car. No Uber or taxi. Just us walking through Naples. We had a few 'tiffs' about the phone. I really should buy a camera so that I don't have to use my phone for pictures. Like anywhere I think, there is little escape from the phone epidemic. However, if we are aware of our surroundings, one may discover little gem places where zero folks have a phone anywhere in sight. Even then, many will not take the cues. Lars is certainly better than many because he knows constant phone use makes me nuts so he tries to avoid temptation. Just like when I smoke a cig, I do not light up around him because he loathes the smell. Inevitably, he pulls it out to navigate, to find an answer to a question we might be pondering, etc. Looking down at his phone he stepped into a big pit hole of water. hahahaha - that was funny.
We walked off the bigger streets into the many side streets in Naples. So many things going on. It is a port city so seafood galore. I was not a fan of the fish smell to be honest. It was directly next to this famous pizza spot that we had to go and try!! I could still smell the fish as we got settled in for pizza. In no time, the sauce and basil aroma wins out - thank God.
(Lupini in this photo is referring to clams that are the size and shape of a lupini bean)
You didn't think we would just be having pizza once did you? Attilio does not play. Pizza is his life.
See what I mean? Talk about commanding a room. For all the times I pissed my principal off by telling her I suffer from high self esteem - it's in the dago blood! We don't apologize for kicking ass.
And they're coming!!!
Attilio is noted for his star pies. The points are stuffed with fresh made ricotta that would blow your mind. Simple sauce, sausage, basil and cheese. Throughout our pizza eating in Naples, I could not finish more than half of a ZA so I simply shared my leftovers with the first person I could find who was interested. It was very easy to find someone. If you throw away food, STOP DOING IT!!!
Lars and his love for fungi. I mean, I like shrooms too, but not on my pizza! He polished this baby off like nothing.
Look at the darlin little knick knack display by our booth?
Buon Appetito!!
We happily continued our 'walk off the pizza' tour so that we could prepare ourselves to eat some pasta!! Honestly, at no point during the week did I ever feel 'stuffed.' I walked everywhere all day every day and in between walking, I ate! I ate with Lars, alone, with homeless friends, travelers.... I ate Naples! And oh how it nourished my soul!
It was this shot I took of Lars that made me think of the article I read before visiting Napoli.
"A Beautiful Mess" indeed
As you can see, the evening was upon us and we stumbled across this little wine spot. Perfect. Let's sit. No reservation. No googled review. What a charming little find.
He was in a bit of withdrawal so I didn't mind that he needed some phone time.
I just lit up!! God I love Italy!!
That's a delicious big ball of mozzarella stuffed and sauced!! Good Lord!! It was so good!! Lars had prosciutto with melon on his date with his phone. lol Yes, yes, I am taking food pics. Kiss my ass.
Lars had veal (nope) and I had some rigatoni early in the week, but I cannot recall where we stopped for this. It was delicious!! Perfectly cooked pasta!! The sauce a touch sweeter than I am fond of.
And we spotted a little love backdrop.... every alley or street had something messy or beautiful or both to see and be enchanted by.
Strolling around Naples as much as we could because every inch of it is something spectacular!
I sure do love this shot. Way up into the side streets of Naples you can find the most delicious pizza and pasta every 10 feet. On our first evening dining with another couple, we ended up at a seafood forward Italian spot and this was our view from our outdoor table. I love it!
Our server was giving me grief about something - I can't recall what it was - but I said, "Fongu", and boy did he laugh. He rallied in all of the staff to share the encounter. Another of the many things I love about Naples! An F-U is always met with a bushel and a peck and a hug around the neck! So much better than passive aggressiva.
And we walked by a McDonald's. Who cares. It was like, "....one of these things is not like the other...." and not in a good way. But the young-ins love it so Buon Appetito! oxox
And Lars' conference was directly next door to our hotel. He would have very full conference days ahead. Oh what ever should I do?? 🤣 😈
I know! I'll hop a ferry!! On my first solo day I was a rookie. I got my tickets online which was not necessary. I was not prepared for an open boat ride so it was big time chilly. I had no idea the ferry stopped more than once, so I got off at the first stop thinking it was the only stop and also there's no way I wasn't getting off when I saw what I saw! I thought it was Amalfi, but it was actually Sorrento.
Tears were just rolling off of my cheeks. I hate that when you want to full on ugly cry, but you can't because you're in public and you don't want to scare anyone.
Still a rookie, I didn't realize a shuttle would carry you up, up, up to the town of Sorrento. I hoofed it.
It was about here where I realized there must be rides that go up there! Not everyone can make it up this climb. Myself included. Oh, and I was still thinking I was at Amalfi right here.
I will take a photo break which really means I need about 15 minutes to catch my breath. Suddenly I am haunted by my carb intake the last 3 days.
So beautiful!! I hope this is it!
After layers of steps going up, I reached Sorrento. Very different from Naples, it was quite clean, more expensive, concentrated with tourists, and ripe with bright yellow lemons & Italian wine. Oh, I still didn't know I was in Sorrento. As I walked through some shops and all of the t-shirts and trinkets with "Sorrento" advertised, I started wondering if I got off the ferry earlier than I was supposed to. Oh ya, I am quite the sleuth!
Even though I was beginning to think I missed the ferry to Amalfi, I was not going to immediately walk back down that wall hill. I went for a decent walk and made sure I marked some landmarks so I knew exactly where to head to go back down to the ferry. I use my phone for pictures. The map quest is useless to me in Italy because I still didn't know where I was going. I was very much okay with kicking it old school and asking someone for help. I found a cute cooking school, bought a few things, walked around some more, fed the pigeons some bread I kept in my pocket, and headed back toward the area where I first spilled out of when I reached the top of Everest. I knew exactly where I was and I was pretty proud of myself. So I spot my landmark and go left. I remember when I reached the top of the final staircase, I ended up in a building and had to walk out of it to get to the town. So, I was certain I was right where I left off. I walked into the building and suddenly nothing was familiar. Just one silver door. I don't remember that.
I opened it and this was inside.
It was a well received 'lost track of direction' moment. Two others were in a pew taking a moment so I went ahead and sat down as well. I ended up sitting there with God for almost an hour. I prayed for the homeless people I had interacted with this week and for the stray dog I saw just moments before. I gave thanks for being there. For being in Italy!! A dream come true! For experiencing the beauty and diversity this world has to offer. I gave thanks for my blessings and thought of my family at home. I mustered up so much passion when asking for guidance because I know I can help - I can help make the world better. Let me help, God. I know I can.
After my date with JC, I took the much more pleasant journey down Kilimanjaro. I just love the random shots. Want to go to Capri? Ya, tickets right there! Crazy!
The rain came trickling in and it was at this moment where I definitely determined that I had gotten off in Sorrento (fongu) and there would be no more ferries to Amalfi that day and it would be 5 more hours until the ferry came to bring us back to Naples. Hardly a problem. I decided to stay down by the water because I simply think it's the most beautiful spot in the world. Any time I am by the ocean I feel more connected. I shopped around and took pause on and off reveling in the scenic views and drawing in the fresh, sea air. I met some very, very special people.
It would rain off and on. Sunshine, rain, repeat. I loved it! With about 3.5 hours to spare before my ferry arrived, I settled in right on the water at Ruccio. Little would I know that various people of Sorrento would make me feel so much like family that I would return again the next day! Everyone and everything about Ruccio's made it my absolute favorite place to eat all week long! I can't wait to show/tell you why.
As the rain came in again, I sipped a limoncello spritz which was delicious and very alcoholicky! Which is my new fave adjective you'll be hearing about more if you read this entire blog entry.
Of course I am still beside myself with glee that I am in a part of the world with zero judgment on cig smokers. Doesn't mean I think America should go back to the old days of smoking in the mall. It was just fun to revert back to being allowed to 'smoke em if you got em' anywhere at all. I plan to quit. Soon. Like in two weeks. I know it's awful. Let me share my favorite thing though - Sorrento's down side in my opinion was a lot of tourists!!! Like a lot! These Americans were sitting directly next to me at Ruccio's when I first sat down. Thank the good Lord their ferry would get them within 30 minutes because for 30 minutes it was like nails on a chalkboard!!
Picture this, Sorrento 2024 (nod to "Sophia"❤️): Anglo Americans; Married hetero couple in 40s with a high school son and a middle school son. They're having some kind of a conflict with traveling plans because their phone is on SPEAKER ON THE RESTAURANT PATIO as they try to resolve it. Complete with despicable language between the two of them. I privately asked my sweet server if I should go Buhl on their asses! He assured me they'd be leaving soon. So for the next 20+ minutes, after their sons went to go walk around (I felt so bad for their two boys), I chain smoked and blew the smoke in their direction. It made me feel better because I would have rather given them my 2 cents and I would have if I had been given the go ahead.
I mean, would you want your surroundings to be filled with speaker phone banter at a time like this? An American might add, 'or cigarette smoke?' It too is actually part of this environment. Ha ha.
Hallelujah! Ruccio's pizza was so scrumptious! I can taste the sweet basil and the homemade cheese just looking at this!! I found the sweetest guy at the Ferry stop in Naples who had his blankets and bags and his precious dog and cat set up on a bench. He was so kind. I could tell by how content his pets were and by how lovingly he pet them as he watched the passer by's. I was so happy when he accepted my pizza share.
I snapped a shot of this boat because I mentioned to Lars that when he retires, I would love to travel by boat and he loves the idea too. Isn't that a reasonable size?
I was walking by this travel agent booth down by the water and I hear a voice so warmly, yet loudly say, "...come here....", as he gestured with extended arms and open hands. Without saying a word, I went right up to him and he put his hands on my cheeks and said, "Italian-American - I guess right?" Ahhhh, what a special thing to connect with each other in an instant without any words, just a feeling. And because I will never be looking down into a device while I am around others. It is basically like saying you are closed for business. Mario, your spirit and soul made your already handsome looks spill off the shelf!!! Va-va-Voooooom!!!! ti amo Mario!
It may have been the sea air or the hot encounter with Mario, but I had plenty of time before the Ferry so I just ate again!! Duh! I was enticed by a Ruccio's simple pasta dish with Sorrento lemon sauce. I have a deep love for lemons. This pasta was 10/10!!! My server friend was discouraging me saying it's too simple. After he saw me enjoy it, he ordered it for his break!
I would take a bite, look up at whoever was within eye shot and sparkle with appreciation and "mmmmmm's"!!! I would catch so many smiles as folks watched me dine alone without a phone in sight.
Eugene and my dear friend on the right who's name escapes me but I want to say Luigi, are two of Ruccio's staff who you will undoubtedly encounter if you visit Sorrento. They are such lovely guys! The heart and soul of Ruccio's, if you will. Although everyone here was so wonderful. Eugene tempted me by advising me to miss the ferry. He wondered why I was staying in Naples! Dirty, crime, too many people, etc. I love this about the Italian culture. Just say it. Put it all out there. I kissed him and said I'd come again tomorrow. I know they didn't believe I would. Little did they know! I explained to Eugene that I had never been to Europe and that I loved Napoli & Sorrento equally for different reasons. He was okay with that. Kind of.
ti amo mi familia of Ruccio's oxox
WARNING: (As true as true can be, my shares, meet-cutes, they are all real encounters. When I do stand up comedy, audience members often ask me after a set, "...did that really happen?" Yes!! I love reading fiction, but I have never tried writing it before. Life is too interesting. )
Another tale more putrid than speaker phone cursing at a scenic, Italian restaurant. We're pulling out of Sorrento. It's about an hour boat ride to Naples. I love, love, love being on the water! And the Mediterranean was quite alive with swells so the journey was rocky!! I love it! Imagine the beauty as you're taking off. You're able to see the landscape from the ocean and it just leaves you breathless. If you haven't already - now take a look at that TOOL!!!! Doesn't he look like a dictionary version of a TOOL!!!!????? He happened to be American as well. sigh His wife was enamored with him. She kept asking him questions as he would go on and on about the history of the area or the depth of the ocean or the aquatic life or the ship designs we'd see. He must have been wearing golden shoes or something because he would respond to her with the most outlandish "facts" and his voice would carry like a faulty transmission as he would insert how idiotic she was. Let me tell ya; I am someone who will simply not turn a blind eye on most things. But I pride myself on gauging the situation and being thoughtful about "going in." At 53, we must fucking learn from past errors wouldn't you think!! So I knew I was going to take this piece of shit down verbally. I do not promote violence even though I 1000% believe a good slap would have felt so much better to do! And he should have been slapped. Son of a bitch I wish I would've punched him in the face. Anyway, I had an internal visit with God with my eyes closed, breathing in the ocean air and holding on tight to the railing. I knew God didn't want me to hit him. I could hear him go back and forth between ridiculously wrong information and demeaning remarks toward this woman who appeared to be his wife. For example: "...the structures at the top of the cliff were all residents......" he said it as though he was the architect and said to her, "are you retarded or something?" Eugene told me that most of those buildings are, in fact, hotels and resorts and NOT private residents. It went on and on like this. His tone was obnoxious. He began lightening up on the mean words toward the woman. Meanwhile, my blood boiling over, I am aware because of my 30 year career teaching 5th grade, that I must deliver when the temperature is down. As we get close to docking in Napoli, his wife points to a tiny statue which seemingly is coming up from the water. He goes on to explain to her that it is one of the Saints they worship. He goes into all kinds of detail about it and I begin to find it more comical than anything so my blood no longer boils. I mean he's a real idiot. I turned directly around and said, "That's Napoleon you complete idioteeee (hand gesture)." And I caught the glimpse of his wife's smile as I de-boarded the ferry to find my friend with the dog and cat. More often than not I really like to seize a moment with more grace and 'schooling' if you will. I just went with my natural window of opportunity that felt right at the time. Tool!!!!
I could have just moved to the lower deck, but the water was so choppy, they required us all to stay seated.
And then it was Thursday evening. Lars had prearranged for us to dine at Aria. I almost didn't include this part of our trip because I feel ashamed of myself for how I behaved. It is important to me that I share authentically. Maybe readers who find me to be holier than thou or even a narcissist, will take some pleasure in my candid confession of bitchery. Others will give me and themselves grace in the fact that we all fuck up sometimes.
We started off on not a great foot because I was too hot (bad clothing choice) and he was running late which is something we often battle about. My old colleagues would laugh at that because punctuality was challenging for me at 7 in the morning, but I am never late to a play, a flight, a meal!!! Just work! Lars is always running behind. He is like Forest Gump. Always running!! We got there on time exactly, but now I am sweating because I am in menopause and I just ran in high heels on cobblestone to get to fancy dinner on time. Ugh.... itinerary. Why does he love it so? He must love the stress. I internally gathered myself, took a breath and snapped out of my frustration. Aria was so beautiful. It was what I would say flawless. Every, single aspect of this dining room was clean. Polished. Maybe 6 large tables. 3 on each side of the room. It was almost ominous. There was basically a cast here. They took care of every table with a balance of personal, Italian warmth and precise, Michelin choreography. I try to articulate to my readers/friends/family/Lars, I am genuinely grateful to experience some of these very elite restaurants. Lars has a passion for this kind of innovative cooking and it certainly isn't a hardship for me to tag along. We always have a unique experience and almost never revisit a place like this more than one time. These kinds of places are not so much my jam, but I guess I wasn't prepared for the energy of it all after I had already been a part of the city for the week. It just didn't go with how I felt about Napoli and being in Italy. It didn't go with the people I had encountered all week long. There was a man with a club foot who begged out by our hotel each day. I just visited with him for a while on the first day we met. Then I brought him a dessert the next day and 10 Euros. We sat and tried to converse with his limited English and my even more limited Italian. This dining experience at Aria didn't go with the mess right outside of their doors. Or maybe even within? I thought of the jet black haired woman outside of our hotel who would rub the back of her 7-8 year old son all day. I gave them a smile and a "bless you," and left 20 Euro in her cup. I'll never forget the look on his face and the love we felt even for an instant. I wish I could do more. Then my flashback went to Lars with his head in his phone and how he ignored this young lady with her baby wrapped in a front swaddle who approached him.
And then the show begins.....
Lars wants the 7 courses with wine pairings and the rule is both guests have to have the same. He can't have 7 courses and me 5. I, of course, say no problem. If you're going to dine somewhere like this, it's just the smartest choice to get their full monty offering. Everything is impeccable. Their table tops are so unique and it is quite dark in there. You can hear a pin drop. First up some delicious snacks and a spoonful of eggplant mousse.
Aria
A Michelin 2024 Private Dining Experience
Naples, Italy
Out of this world, hands down the best bread that BOTH of us have ever had honestly! It was an onion foccacia that must have just come out of the oven and this divine savory pumpkin bread with homemade butter. Very cloudy, unfiltered wine that was so damn good I thought I'd die!
I had tried to make a bit of conversation, but was not really feeling heard. Lars even said to me that he can listen and do other things at the same time. Even if I had a good reason to feel like I was losing the battle to stay in positive spirits, I still should not have given up trying. I remember feeling full already and I am kind of picky with seafood preparation so Lars had this course twice no problem. They are small portions. :)
Oh gosh this pasta was so delicious!! The cook on it was like the kind of al'dente that my brother Tony and I like. It had this perfect chew with a very rich sauce. Mmm the wine pairings!!! They were spot on!! One after another!! PAIRINGS are game changers to food and to wine and to wine and to food!!
So there's a little break before this noodle course and I head to the restroom. I walk in and it's just this one gal standing by the sink with her face in her hands. I excuse past her to go into the stall and notice she's obviously upset at the same time. From the stall as I scramble to sit and pee, I ask, "...can I help you my dear?" She softly says, "...no, thank you...." "Are you sure? I can help you." I say firmly, but warmly. "No, no, it's okay, thank you so much." She's out before I am done. When I return to the table and sit down with Lars, I try to quietly explain our encounter in the bathroom. As I observe the two of them, it is just too hard to figure out what is going on. I mean, here Lars and I were having a seemingly normal couples dinner out, yet all the while increasingly growing impatient and/or angry with one another. In our case, I became increasingly more rude as the evening went on. Two wrongs don't make a right. Shame on me. What was their deal? I couldn't tell and I kept trying to look for signs if she needed help. The two of them spent the entire time eating these beautiful courses without any engagement whatsoever. Was she the bitch like me and her date was miserable too? At least Lars and I conversed throughout. Even if it got less lovely. I don't know what else I could have done in this situation.
I don't remember these courses at all. Lars must have had mine. I had tried to make conversation, but I grew annoyed because it seemed we could only focus on the food. Why could I have not practiced my loving approach as an empath that I take such pride in? I could have asked him if we could engage a bit more and shared I was getting frustrated. Easy peasy. Nooooo. Instead I start making little digs. And all of my frustration with how Aria didn't go with the trip was spilling out....
I'm so full by now I can't even take another bite or sip.
One, two, three!!!!! dessert courses and a very faux picture of our "Michelin-Starred" date night.
Lars and I travel so marvelously together! It was a kink in the week to have unpleasantries at Aria. I regret my impatience and lashing out at him. Our walk back to the hotel was heated. I was so sorry for the digs. It's an unproductive way to resolve conflicts to give up and just be a dick. We get into battles about our huge differences. I asked him about the woman and her baby and how could he ignore them? At least smile and say hello. To that there was no response, but I do understand that we are just different. We argue every time about tipping. He says he researches and some cultures do not require tips. I won't go into that battle. I think we've finally squashed it. I will carry more cash.
Why share everything? Well, it's my blog and my perspective. Lars always reads my posts and that is one of the biggest reasons I love him because although a living diary wouldn't be his choice, he very much supports what it does for me. It's important to me to be authentic. Relationships are complicated. He is incredibly efficient on the bounce back. I usually need a little more space before a hug, but he can go from 0-50 and back in a snap. I am a lot of things, but it has never been in my nature to be mean. Lars and I always find a way to quickly replace our conflicts with love and sincere apology. I wish that for you too. To feel safe enough with those you love to fight and recover. It's important.
On our final day in Italy, Lars had a busy conference day so I packed up and headed to Sorrento again! It is only a 50 minute ferry ride and I told my friends at Ruccio's that I would return. With our short visit, maybe some would think it's better to see as much as possible. For me though, returning to Sorrento the next day felt more like I had tackled some ins and outs of the unknown, and now I was returning more savvy.
Just a hop, skip and jump from our hotel to the ferry.
And I am still so happy to be in Naples - to be in Italy! Even though my heart began getting heavy with the thought of leaving the next day.
This ferry company was a bit different. I sat down on the way for warmth and up on the return. Less open air than yesterday's trip. Both were fun and lovely minus the tool yesterday.
I'm baaaack!!!! Hello Sorrento! I was so excited to eat at Ruccio again and see Eugene and Luigi!
My guy here also loved when I said "Fongu" as he teased me for ordering two meals!
Hand made pasta with clams - delish!
I wanted to pick up some keepsakes and when I entered this darling Harbor shop, I was greeted by this lovely gal! I instantly said to her, "....we look like sisters!" She laughed and we embraced and I bought some fun things. Marisol is from Spain and has lived here for long. She was a dear and I certainly loved our meet-cute! ti amo Marisol!
Eugene tells me that a shuttle will bring me up the mountain for free. Thank God!! But I'd happily pay too! I headed up from the water and walked to find Eugene's buddy, Franco who sells wine.
"Straight down the street with no cars until you see the hospital. Turn your head left and you will see Franco's little corner store." Look! I found it without my phone. I grabbed Lars like 4 bottles of wine and it was so lovely meeting Eugene's pal! He was so incredibly kind. Grazi Franco!
And I walked back toward the Harbor because I would rather spend the bulk of my day by the water with the stunning views, delicious food/wine, and new friends. There are definitely a lot of tourists here. Before I headed down, I saw a stray dog. He was smaller and older and shaggy. Everyone was watching him stroll along the busy sidewalk searching for scraps. Everyone was sort of stunned by his back side because his little testicles were hanging almost to the sidewalk. I gave him some of the bread and cheese in my pocket that I had for the pigeons, but he only came to eat it once I stepped away. I headed back down to the water sobbing because I have an unreasonable reaction to animal sadness. Please, please there must be some local who will help that poor guy. Since my date and his colleague are urologists, I told them about the dog and they both laughed it off and said, "...huh, ya, descended balls..." and continued eating their tomato basil. Sigh
Yes, going down is a breeze!
This very spot was between Ruccio's and Marisol's shop right on the Mediterranean. I've never seen anything so beautiful. ti amo Sorrento family!!
And then came our last evening in Italy before traveling back to Houston, Texas..... Lars was busy with meetings and then on the search for more wine to fill the wine suitcase. He definitely would not have enjoyed a Vespa tour of Naples. In fact, most people I know would not have found it exhilarating. We had the whole week in Naples, but we definitely didn't walk throughout the entire city. I found a "with locals" site and connected with this wonderful Napoli guy named Andrea. He picked me up by our hotel after I returned from Sorrento. Lars saw me off and gave Andrea the once over.
And away we went just an hour or so before sunset.
The next couple of hours were the absolute perfect way to close. To me the driving in Naples is utterly fascinating!!! There are almost no pedestrian lights so you just gotta take your opportunity. The traffic is seemingly chaotic and intense, yet people and off-leashed dogs everywhere are as aware of the traffic as the traffic is aware of them. It just all works. Houston!!!! Take a page from Naples!
Andrea is an awesome driver. He has lived here his whole life. The ONLY way to navigate this city would be by scooter or foot in my opinion. We weaved in and out of traffic like bosses. It was awesome!!!
Andrea's English was 100X better than my Italian, but we still had to converse with some care. I instantly liked him. He was serious, yet warm. Assertive. Confident. We parked in this area because he wanted me to try fried pizza from one of his favorite spots. Every corner of Naples was such a beautiful mess!
Little did I know that Andrea would be introducing me to my favorite bite in all of Naples!
Inside of that absolutely mind blowing outer crust was the freshest, creamiest ricotta and some Italian ham with basil ribbons throughout. Andrea was like my hero because he was chowing that thing down like we were late to church so I followed suit the very best I could. I kept saying, "Oh my God!! This is unbelievable!" I was absolutely charmed by all of the beauty and all of the mess that surrounded us as we enjoyed this Napoli favorite! Andrea then shared with me that 5 Euro in Naples will buy you breakfast, lunch, and dinner. 5 Euro in Milan will buy you breakfast, maybe. He expressed how much he did not like Sorrento because of the costs and the tourism. I smiled inside thinking of how my new Sorrento family got snarky about Naples and now my Napoli friend is ragging on Sorrento. It was charming and endearing and I told all of my new friends that this is my first time to Europe; of course my first visit to Italy. I fell ridiculously in love with every one of my experiences for different reasons. Just think of me as Susie Switzerland. I love you both! And you both have excellent points.
Antica's Fried Pizza!!! A Beautiful Mess
As the sun was going down, Andrea took me to some incredible spots overlooking nearby "Little Naples."
Pozzuoli
It grew darker and the colors kept shifting. I was mesmerized.
Andrea explained the history of new mountain seen in the photo below with the sail boats.
He also shared with me that when his grandfather was a little boy, he would fish right off of this stoop pictured on the right. By the time Andrea began fishing with his grandfather, they sat on the stoop pictured to the left. The stoop his grandfather sat on as a little boy was way UP and far from the water.
I made reservations for our last evening at Locanda Del Cerriglio. Lars' colleague and his wife joined us. Andrea dropped me at the hotel and we shared a warm goodbye and then I flipped into my dress and we walked about 15 minutes to this little alley. It was kind of hard to find, but when we did, how 14th century it felt.
A mysterious and I think sexy stroll into their dining room. Lars has known his colleague and wife for nearly 3 decades. I had met them once before. We shared a meal on Wednesday and decided to regale again on Friday. I am at an age or time or place in my life where I try to be so much more thoughtful than reactionary. I also have Lars to thank for that. He thinks everything through. That said, I really believe that if we feel a certain way about someone, chances are, their feelings are similar. Maybe not for the same reasons, but if you really think about it, people that you are super crazy for, you know, folks that you just love, love, love to be around. It's likely that they feel exactly the same way about you. I am on the fence about whether or not I like Lars' colleague and I am certain that he feels the exact same way. We had some decent moments, but he thinks I am 'not lady like' and I am certain I make him uncomfortable and I think he's pompous without the confidence. His wife is so warm and so lovely, however, I told Lars I guess we just don't have much in common, ya know? I had already spent Wednesday evening listening to all kinds of various ways to obtain weight loss medication and other prescription medication. I listened. I also shared, "...you're so beautiful just the size you are..." and shared with all three of them on the streets of Napoli that it's okay to embrace the chub! "Look at me, I'm a bit chubby, but I've never felt more sexually desirable in all of my life!!"
Let's eat!!
Speaking of sexually desirable! This young Napoli man played the role of Cerriglio the artist all evening. He was crass, forward, eclectic, a real sinner! He never broke character so the entire experience and decor was just so exciting and fun to me!!
Cerriglio and I fell in love. My sexual aura, chub and all, hypnotized him. His Johnny Depp, Pirates of the Caribbean vibe made me respond equally. Staying in the 14th century artist's character, he gruffly explained to Lars that...."You're wife is the most magical woman in this room and if you weren't here, I would throw her over my shoulder and bring her to my chambers!!" Lars - don't you have an urgent call to take??? hahaha - Another beautiful fact about me and Lars, we are both 1000% true to ourselves & each other. Lars knows more than anyone that I am a sexual Goddess!
I have no idea what I ordered to eat here. I just know I drank wine. There were zero phones in sight around the restaurant and I had already gently expressed my dislike for phones a few times. Somewhere in here I had to make a final plea to put em away. I was direct, but added levity and finally there was a break from them for the last hour of our evening. Lars didn't pull his phone out once and I understand that the whole world has a problem, but when I look around and see zero phones, it felt more okay to take charge. I could've lit up and smoked right at the table on Wednesday night; but of course I did not do that. Hello.
I would not have changed a bit. Having another couple to dine with those two evenings and sharing in the excitement of being there was a good thing. I do appreciate new perspectives. Even when they don't always resonate. I always learn something valuable.
We're moving to a castle in the country! "I crown you my UN-Ladylike Queen"
I made this video before catching the ferry to Sorrento on our last day. I was feeling so, so sad that the week flew by!
This is my best bursting with love smile I could capture! I am so grateful to Lars. His sense of adventure and choice of experiencing it all with me is a gift and I love him so much! We both feel so fortunate to have balance in each other. I am forever grateful to the people of Napoli and Sorrento for making my first visit to Italy feel like I was coming home! ti amo !!
Don't fret. I'm not ending on a bad note. I want to share something so beautiful before I bid Bonjourno! But in honor of Italians and their direct approach, I must include this as a set up. These are just two of a trillion examples that I see every day where ever we are. Big ding a ling - I am someone who lives by the rule of not using my phone in front of others. Period. I scan my boarding pass. I take pics. I've become more and more strict with myself over the years because I loathe the phones. BUT I am also someone who gets much time alone so it may be more doable for me to avoid my phone in public. It's just so sad though. On the left, the guy was visiting with this gal in a very upbeat manner. Like he was excited about what he was telling her. Many minutes went by and she never looked up. Never responded or added or inquired or acknowledged. After about 5 minutes or so, he just went for his phone and that was that. Lars and I had a long lay over and those two remained in that position. On the right - oh that's my favorite. Evening in Hawaii. Directly behind these two is the ocean. Lars and I dined here for 2 hours and that was their position. I was getting a pedicure last month and this woman sitting two seats to my left was on her phone. So was every other client in the salon, but the difference was that this woman brought her 5-6 year old son in with her and he was sitting in the chair next to her. He had zero in his hands. No device, no beverage, no snack. He was trying to talk to her so sweetly and she just flat out ignored him. That little boy sat there for over 2 hours like solitary confinement. I would smile at him, but I was familiar with them mommy vibes so better stay out..... I think we should all be braver about speaking our mind. Like Napoli people! It doesn't have to be ugly or violent. Speak with love. Listen with love. I think if you do everything with love it works out how it should.
Lars headed to the cozy club on our layover in Newark. We had a lot of time before our flight home so after customs, we rechecked our luggage and I headed outside to have a few ciggy's. As I sat on a dirty curb reflecting back at the last 8 days, I wondered if people knew how much they were missing around them. I was thinking about that girl in the fancy restaurant who was upset in the bathroom. About all of the traveler's at Ruccio who had to listen to those rude guests on speaker phone in the middle of a serene, joyous backdrop. I thought about that woman who has a tool for a husband. I smoked and watched as people were getting in and out of cars to catch their flights; phones pressed to their cheeks or clutched in their hands. I thought of how lucky I was to have had that week with Lars in Italy. Suddenly, I see this thin, older African American fella pushing a woman in a wheel chair. He says, "...excuse me, miss....would you mind just grabbing my wife a little bite to eat please...God bless you...." I immediately wanted to cry. I'm crying just remembering this whole encounter. I stood up from the dirty curb. Disgusted with myself for the umpteenth time that I am blowing 10$ a day on something so filthy like cigarettes. "Of course, I would love to help you. I am so sorry you're on hard times." I reached into my fanny pack hoping I would find more than Euros and luckily I had two $20s. (thinking Lars would cringe) I put them both in his hand and he began to cry. I still held it together. They were both in a crisis, but not on the streets yet. They were dressed warmly and shared they'd be okay as they were catching a bus. He asked if I would be willing to have a prayer together. Of course. The three of us stood in a circle in the middle of the dusty, bustle of Newark's flight departure zone and this sweet man asks if I could say the prayer because he wasn't great at that sort of thing. "Dear heavenly Father; please watch over my two new friends. Please bring them comfort and safety in your love today and always. In Jesus' name we pray. Amen." And it was there outside in Jersey, holding hands with two people who I can say I loved, where I knew the beauty of being in Italy for 8 days will be right there with me until I return....
JETLAG!
Lonesome for Naples
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